Has anyone else noticed a slight jiggle of a noise in the rear door? I had a friend drive while I sat in the cargo space and could pin point. I am pretty sure it is not the license relocater or the rear tire gate. Anyone else????

MIke

I'm not surprised you don't have other noises! I've fixed 5 to 6 myself, and the dealer quite a few more. With all the cheap plastic they put into these H2's, everything makes noise! :mad:

I too have a big problem with a squeaking rattling rear door. It seems like the whole door is moving in the frame and lubing the rubber seal does nothing. The H2 has been in the shop 3 times and they do fix it - temporarily. It drives me crazy too. Given the cost of the veicle, this is ridiculous. If anyone has solved this, then help !!

I too have the same problem. Just took delivery of a Yellow Truck last week, and the rear door is already acting up. Initially I thought it was the carrier on top with the spare wheel mounted on it, that was the problem. But after a while it was clear that it was the rear door that was rattling like crazy.

I have now been asked to take the vehicle to the shop for fixing the problem.

Keeping my fingers crossed, and hoping the problem can be fixed for the longer term.

Any suggestions? Anyone?

The most likely source of a rattle appears to be license plate holder that itself fits into the rear door. Taking it out is quite easy and you will need to use a good water-repellant flexible sealing compound. The sqeaking comes from the movement and flexing at the rear-door seal and you will need to experiment with various silicone sprays until you find one that works. A good test is to use petroleum jelly to see if that improves the noise. You may also have to adjust the spacers that attach to the rear-door frame to find the optimal tension in the rear door.

GOOD LUCK

I guess I replied TOO SOON !! The noises came back, so back we go to the Hummer Dealer. They are getting pretty frustrated as well but not, thankfully, with me. I wonder if Hummer ever reads these posts and can provide a response. I know of 2 other H2 owners up here in BC who are also going crazy with these noises - this is unacceptable for what this vehicle costs. Otherwise, I love this truck !!

If anyone has some experience, advice, etc - please post

Not only do I have a prob with paying 60000. for a rattle that drives me f*cking crazy, I also live 2+ hours from the nearest dealer. This isnt just a let me drop it off at the dealer deal for me. It is a major pain in the a$$. Please let me know when one of you guys are finnaly successfull in terminating this rattle(s) so that I can tell my dealer what your dealer did.

Well, the H2 in at the dealers and they took the trim off - the noise peristed. They took the rear window out - the noise peristed. The next step is to check the spot welds that hold the inner and outer rear door skins together. Perhaps they will be finished by Friday...who knows ?
The final possibility is that the door , or the frame, is slightly out of alignment. Why not just give me a new H2 ????

I second that! I will take a new one too.

Any luck on your quest for a quiet door ?
Has anyone tried adjusting the strikers?
I know thats helped in some cases.:confused:

Well, the dealer broke down my rear door to its component parts and found some spot welds that were not very good. These were all redone, the door reassembled and...guess what - the rattle and squeaks persisted. Now they are looking at the rear door frame.
This looks more and more like a design or manufacturing fault and as soon as I get an answer (or a new H2 !!?), I'll post the info.

An update - the dealer has had the H2 for 9 days and told me to come and pick it up 3 times before phoning me to say the rattles and squeaks had returned !!
Eventually, yesterday they decided to put on a new rear door - although I had suggested this 6 weeks ago.
I'll find out today if this has worked. If not, I guess I'll ask them to attach a new H2 to my original door.
The dealer will soon have had the H2 more than I have !!:nopity

Hey Rancill...I really appreciate your persistance in this matter. I think it will help everyone who owns one. I hope they figure it out so I can layt it on my dealer.

Thanks Again

Mike:cheers

Well, it does appear that it is finally fixed - but the dealers will not like the solution: YOU WILL NEED A REPLACEMENT DOOR. There appears to be a problem with the welds between the inner and outer skins and no amount of body-shop repairing does anything. So insist on the proper fix - GM Canada know about it and I asked them to pass it on to the USA-GM and about this web site.

That sucks....but congrats and thanks. How long will it take for you to get the truck back? Did your dealer give you a loaner? Mine will have to since the dam place is in the middle of no where.

Thanks Again

Mike:party

I got a loaner - an IMPALA (UUUUGGGGHHHH !!!) which I had to drive for 10 days. The rear door is quieter but still shimmies and shakes a little. I have doused every rubber seal with excessive amounts of silicone lube and we will have to see how long it lasts.

The other thing I found out was that the groaning from the suspenson is "normal" according to the service dude - so I have sprayed that as well !!!

:banghead

Dealer called yesterday. Told me they will make the 2 hour drive to me,drop off a loaner,take my truck back to fix the noise,and deduct the miles off of the warranty. I thought that was pretty nice of them. I will tell them not to bring it back till they fix it. I may even tell them to bring me one of those bikes back with it. They are running a special....2.5% and a free bike right now.

Polaknuts,

Which dealer is giving 2.5% and the free bike??

Rancill,

When did you get your H2?

Thanks,

Raj

Originally posted by Polaknuts
Dealer called yesterday. Told me they will make the 2 hour drive to me,drop off a loaner,take my truck back to fix the noise,and deduct the miles off of the warranty. I thought that was pretty nice of them. I will tell them not to bring it back till they fix it. I may even tell them to bring me one of those bikes back with it. They are running a special....2.5% and a free bike right now.

Hey guys,

It is a dealer here in south texas. If you want I can hook you up with thesales manager. They were very nice about the whole jiggle thing. They brought me a loaded 4x4 Tahoe(Doesnt compare at all,not even the ride)and picked up my h2. In one day they fixed them problem found 2 other squeeks that I forgot to tell them about and fixed them, and had my truck back by the next morn. I hope that was the last of the rattles. They told me that only the rear gate bumpers needed to be adj.. I hope that does the trick. Let me know if you are interested in any thing from those guys. I will look up thier email and #'s for you

:cheers

Yes, I would like to know which dealer this is. Hook me UP!

Thanks,

Raj

What is your email? will send you the guys name and #.

My email address is: gsodhi2@cox.net

Would really appreciate the info.

Thanks,

Raj


Originally posted by Polaknuts
What is your email? will send you the guys name and #.

Well, for all you guys who are following the never-ending rear-hatch noise saga - this has more episodes than Days Of Our Lives. After a few weeks of "wait, did I hear that noise again...no, it was just some wind noise" it came back with vengeance. This was the same day one of the rear height sensors snapped and the back of the H2 rose 6 inches vertically giving my H2 the flying wedge look - at least that made it marginally more aerodynamic !!!

So, I took it back to the dealer - contemplating driving throught their main showroom and left it with the Saturday service guy. They will look at it tomorrow and we willl see what they are going to do this time.

By the way, I have the green impala back again.

:banghead

Funny you write this. Just two days ago, that damn noise came back. I thought I was hearing things at first. Quiet bliss for about two weeks. Dealer is ready to come pick up again. He swears it is the tire carrier out side. At first I thought there is no way. It reall sounded like it was in the rearhatch. Well 2 days ago it rained and the noise stopped while my truck was wet. That makes me pretty sur it is something on the exterior. I think I am gonna try hosing down the back end one more time before the servive guys come. :mad: :cuss

I NOTICED THAT MINE ALSO WOULD GET QUIET WHEN IT WAS WET. SO I LUBED THE LITTLE BLACK STOPERS ON THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR AND HAVENT HEARD THE NOISE SINCE. ALSO I DONT HAVE THE REAR TIRE CARRIER, SO I NO THATS NOT IT.
MY DEALER HERE IN HOUSTON SAID THEY HAVENT HAD ANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE DOORS.:crazy

OK - here is the latest info on the rear noise door - mine does seem to be fixed now, but only time will tell. Lubing various things is just a temporary fix as when it dries out, the noises WILL return. It appears that on some rear hatches, the spot welds that hold the door latches and the bumpers are insufficient to hold them and they move under the pressure of the closed hatch - creaking and rattling. My dealer used the same stuff they bond the windows with to anchor these four weight-bearing points and the door is now quiet - for the moment anyway ~ 3 days so far !!

:seeya

Het Rancil

How did the new fix work out? I just got mine back for the second time and the noise came back 2 days later.

Polaknuts

Well the noise has stayed away - :party

The 'fix' seems to have worked - it is the door latches. They have to be taken off and re-attached using window-bond. I also lube the hell out of the rubber seal.

Finally, I can enjoy the H2.

Hi rancill.

Can you go into more detail on exactly what you did to fix? I just got a new H2 about a month ago, and I'm having exactly the same problem -- terrible noises from the rear door. I'd like to know which supports/latches you mean and what brand of window bond did the job.

Thanks a bunch as I love my new Hummer -- just not the noise...


:banghead

The latches are the 2 inverted U metal pieces on the bottom of the rear door frame that the door-locks latch into. As far as understand it, the spot welds that hold them can be poor and my dealer removed those and used the same neoprene bonding that holds the rear window in place.

I think the dealer has to do it. If your dealer needs more info, he can contact my dealer: DUECK at 604 324 7222 and ask for the service manager.

GOOD LUCK

No noise here!

with just 3 amps totalling 2750 watts of power, I havnt heard a single sqeak in my ride. sure beats a loner car, lol

Hey,

Pick up my hummer less than 24 hours ago and tonight I started to hear a rattle in the back door as I road down the road.. Why doesn't Hummer just do a recall on all the trucks if this seem to be a problem?

Oh well I will check it out more tomorrow and see if I can find it my self..

Jeff

"No noise here!

with just 3 amps totalling 2750 watts of power, I havnt heard a single sqeak in my ride. sure beats a loner car, lol"

With that much power, your subs will make some rattles for you :nono but you'l probably never hear them :jester

So enjoy :party

Do you have any pictures of the install of this powerful stereo system?? It would be cool to see how you did the subs..


Jeff

pics are under adding more billet and chrome topic, the subs that are in there are temp though, they are building boxes for the w7's that mount over the xbox and one over the dvd changer. have to shoot those pics when they are done

SMA Spare Tire Carrier May Rattle Over Rough Surfaces, T-Pin Lock Difficult to Remove (Install Revised Latch Isolator and Verify Installation fo Anti-Rotation Bolts in Hinge Bracket) #03-08-66-011 - (10/02/2003)
SMA Spare Tire Carrier May Rattle Over Rough Surfaces, T-Pin Lock Difficult to Remove (Install Revised Latch Isolator and Verify Installation of Anti-Rotation Bolts in Hinge Bracket)
2003-2004 HUMMER H2


Important
In the interest of customer satisfaction, it is absolutely imperative that the revised latch isolator kit be installed to all Stinger Mac Accessories (SMA) rear mounted tire carriers you may have in stock. If the nylon insert in the latch cavity is red, it must be changed. The revised latch isolator is black. Refer to the kit number and instructions below. Also, be sure to use the anti-rotation bolts supplied with the tire carrier kit when mounting the hinges on all future installations. These two issues lead to rattle concerns.


Condition
Some customers may comment that the tire carrier rattles when going over rough surfaces or that the T-pin Lock is difficult to remove.

Cause
This condition may be due to the tire carrier frame contacting the latch bracket.

Correction
Follow the service procedure below to correct this condition.





A revised latch isolator is available as P/N 80112. Install it by removing the two fasteners retaining the RED Bumper to the latch bracket. Place the new latch isolator in the opening of the latch bracket and secure it using the supplied fasteners. Installation of the latch isolator will also promote smooth operation of the T-pin lock. It may also be necessary to re-align the tire carrier frame to ensure smooth operation of the T-pin.



In addition to Step 1, verify installation of the anti-rotation bolts in tire carrier hinge bracket. If anti-rotation bolts are not installed, please do so at this time per the SMA Tire Carrier Instructions.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description

80153
3/8-24 x 1 Allen Bolt

80112
Revised Latch Isolator

Rancill - thanks so much for posting all your trials and tribulations re: rear door rattling. Sorry you had to go through all the grief alone. You saved us all from torture by green impala!

We also bought our H2 from Dueck and they tell us - only one in a thousand will have this problem... ya, right! Our rattles are exactly as you've experienced. Also, the rattle is noticably loud just while idling - but open a door (any door or sunroof) and it stops.

When will I learn.... Am a proud previous owner of 'first year of new body' 84 Vette and 'all-new, no parts prevously like any other used' 99 Jeep Grande Cherokee!)
:crazy
FlyGirl
Victoria, BC
Canada

This drove me crazy for awhile. I had taken my H2 into the dealer numerous times for the noisey rear door. They always seem to fix it, only it would start up again a few days later. The other day, I was determined to find the problem. I removed all the trim on the rear door and had my wife drive around. It still had the noise even though I could put my hand on everything. I then tried a dry 3M silicon spray on all the weather stripping and stops, drove around and still the #%&*& noise. Next it started to rain and guess what? It reduced the noise. Now on to the next step. I've noticed that when towing my boat, the noise would really get bad. This got me focused on the outside. I remove my license plate and bracket, drove, still not it. Next, I hooked up my boat and trailer, stood on the trailer close to the ball hitch and slowly started to bounce my weight up and down. My wife was close to the rear bumper and the rear door edge and guess what she heard? That *&%##@# noise. It seems there is some flex with the main body and the bumper (which is mounted to the frame) and if you look on either side of your rear door just over the bumper and under your fender metal, you will notice some weather stripping. Thats the source of the noise and explains why when I took it in to the dealership it seemed to be fix for a day or so, What happened ? "THEY ALWAYS DETAILED IT". The weather stripping once dirty squeaks like hell against the metal. I simply trimmed the rubber away from the metal just on the rear sections and problem solved, no more mystery noise. Another note, use the 3M dry silicon spray on the rest of your door weather stripping after detailing and your H2 be free of smaller squeaks.

I have a picture showing the location.

ROravetz -

THANK-YOU!!! for going the extra 12 miles on this!! It's obviously making you as insane as it is us!?

Would you mind posting pics? That'd BE EXCELLENT!

My fingers are crossed... if it starts #%$(*@#@ rattling again, there's no telling what you may do next!!

*LOL*

FlyGirl

Welcome to the Forum!

PICS PLEASE!! Thanks for the information!!

I hope I'm doing this right?

wild that something like that can cause so much sound! wonder if thats something they will clean up soon for 05.

ROravetz, your are da man!!! Rear door noise was awful yesterday. I just went to the carwash and presto, quiet as a sleeping baby! I never managed to put together that when the H2 was dirty the rear door squeaked more...We're hitting the road today for Thanksgiving with a package of armor all wipes in hand (a short term fix until we get back). We owe the peace and quiet within our H2 to you!!!
:thumbs :cool :cheers

Thank you! Thank you! I am giving it a try tomorrow.

I have killed my rear door squeak. Many have posted on other forums that you must trim the tab on each side of the rear bottom molding. You do not. Simply rub some vaseline on them and whallah no noise.

These get wet when you wash it and that is why the noise goes away when wet.

I have over 1,000 miles now with no noise.

Finally

:party

I was able to fix my squeak without cutting the tab as well.

After taking my truck to the local dealer several times for adjustments that never did work, I decided to try one of those little foam pads that stick to the bottom of your furniture legs to protect hardwood floors. These are available in many shapes and sizes at any hardware store for just a buck or two. Now my squeak is gone!!

Just cut the pad down to the proper size, peel off the adhesive backing, and stick to the inside bottom corner of the rear door.

Problem solved!!!

:party

It's funny how no one could address the problem with the noise in the back door. I found the noise and suggested triming the rubber. Coating it with vasoline does work, but in Texas the heat it melts this product and acts as a dirt magnet. This rubber, once collecting dirt, will cause a sand paper effect and ruins the paint in the area of contact. This cure over time will wear through the paint, so enjoy the rust someday. Trimming the rubber eliminate any need for further maintenance. If your going to use a lubricant, try 3m dry silicon spray, this product protects and lubricates the rubber.

Tried the furniture pad route, but found after driving in the rain, they were soggy and had shifted, again causing the noise. My truck needed the padding on all sides of the mouldings to stop the squeaking, not just the edges.

Last week was just so frustrated with the bandaid solution, that I completely peeled the rubber mouldings off the vehicle. There was a bit of sticky black silicone used under them from the factory, but they came off very easily. Aesthetically, the gap between the body and bumper doesn't look great, so will next experiment with how much trimming of the mouldings is required.

I agree with ROravetz - to completely solve the problem, trim the mouldings.

FlyGirl
Victoria, BC

Any luck with the trimming?

trimmed mine over a week ago, and still quiet.:D

Just a note of thanks to ROravetz and those of you who found and reported the source of that damn rear door rattle and the methods of fixing it.

I was so sure the noise was coming from inside the cab that I was ready to start ripping out the interior molding!

Merely lubricating the flanges isn't the long term answer, in my never so humble opinion, because prolonged rubbing is eventually going to rub through the paint under there and that will lead to rust.

Here's how I fixed my H2's rear rattle:
Working the two weather stripping strips off their mounts (this is most easily done starting from the front of the strip and working it up as you work your way to the back) I pulled them off the flange on the bumper they're mounted on and noticed there is a bump or hollow mound on the inside of the strip just above the groove that fits over the flange on the bumper.

Using a sharp knife I used that bump as a guide as I cut, from the inside, along the entire length of the weather strip. That takes about a half inch off the weather strip and does so with a straight line. I might have taken off less but that would have entailed a bunch of measuring and fancy cutting which I didn't have time for. Let's face it, unless you're backing over somebody, nobody's going to be close enough to notice if your weather strips are 3/8 of an inch or 1/2 an inch from the bottom of the frame.

Since the black goo that holds the weather strips on was still gooey, I just reinserted the strips onto the bumper flanges and pressed them down firmly. (Be sure to have the SLANTED end of the strip facing the front of the Hummer when you replace them.) So far they're holding on fine.

Dave, I see you found the site and figured out the fix. Next time I'm down you will have to give me a show and tell. Mark in NM